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This is a puzzler that truly puzzles.
1> The fender is tied to the stanchion top. This generates a lot of force on the bottom of the stanchion and the bolts through the deck. The most puzzling thing about this photo is why the fender is not simply cleared off to the empty cleat immediately below the current attachment point. Or you could even use one of those two very nice earrings (Yes that is what those little loops on cars that slide on the track are called). Or if those were not available why not tie the fender to the bottom of the stanchion)? The force generated by the fender being caught between the boat and the dock can be quite high. Tying the fender to the top of the stanchion increase the force applied to the deck. In this example we can easily have over 100 foot pound of force trying to rip the stanchion out of the deck. In stormy conditions, or with a big wake in the marina, the force could easily exceed 500 foot pounds, and tear the stanchion right out of the boat.
2> We can see where the forces at work on this stanchion have already torn the fiberglass of the deck. Those cracks show where damage has already occurred. They also lead us to wonder if the bedding compound between the stanchion base, and the deck has failed, and there is water damage to the core further weakening this area. See the crack headed inboard from the scupper? We should check this area carefully for rotted core and delamination between the top and bottom skin of the deck.
3> This fairlead for the roller furling line is twisted at an odd angle chafing the roller furling line as it comes through and adding unnecessary friction and effort to rolling in the jib.
4> The life lines are bent, and showing signs of corrosion under their vinyl covers. They should be replaced with either uncovered stainless steel lifelines, or even better with spectra line.
Like every puzzler if you have questions or find somehting that we have not pointed out. Feel free to email or start a thread in the forum.
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